This season, escape takes on new forms in the City of Light.

What is the role of fashion in times of social unrest? It’s a perennially difficult question to answer, and it surfaced again this week as the Fall 2023 couture shows took place in Paris.

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Across the French capital, celebrities came out dressed to new as designers showcased elaborate craftsmanship. At the same time, nationwide protests were raging after the police murder of Nahel Merzouk, a 17-year-old boy of Algerian and Moroccan descent. Some thought the shows shouldn’t even have happened. Couture, after all, represents the highest levels of wealth, privilege and excess in fashion. At the same time, as the greatest form of clothing expressionism, it faithfully reflects the culture. Perhaps that’s why this season we’ve seen a theme of subtle, understated artwork as opposed to over-the-top flashy eyewear. From an emphasis on artificiality to a shocking amount of deceptively casual designs, this season’s couture collections – whether intentionally or not – have taken on a deeper meaning. Below, FASHION sums up the highlights of the week.

Chanel: La Française entered the chat

Is there a fashion figure more ambitious than the archetypal Parisienne? Her clean cut, casual pairings and perfectly tousled hair have long been the object of admiration. And no entity captures its essence better than Chanel. Effortless Frenchness permeates the brand’s identity, and her latest couture collection was an ode to that image. Models swapped luxury handbags for straw flower baskets and strolled the cobbled streets with seemingly nowhere to go. Wearing flats or Mary Janes, they sported classic silhouettes with tweed separates, floral patterns and the I do not know What coolness that defines the aesthetic of the French girl.

Thom Browne: Now that’s a power suit

Known for his ability to deconstruct and reinvent the elements of a classic costume, American designer Thom Browne marked his first couture show by focusing on what he does best: theatricality. In front of an audience of 2,000 cardboard cutouts, Browne sent models down the runway with clown makeup, puffy sleeves and optical illusion jackets. Each look was accompanied by equally stunning headgear, from updos to Carrie Bradshaw-style pigeon hats.

Balenciaga: it’s time to arm yourself

It was a difficult year for Balenciaga. After enduring viral controversy in November 2022, the brand is slowly making a comeback by moving away from gimmicks and focusing on craftsmanship. Example: for the latest couture collection of the house, the creative director Demna presented oil painted canvas that look like denim and coats that to seem permanently caught in the wind. THE main dish? A 3D printed metal look dress inspired by Joan of Arc. It’s a way of communicating hardened sensibilities.

Dior: less is more

In an industry that strives for novelty, there is power in simplicity. Just ask artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri, who showcased a pared-back take on couture at Dior. Models walked in a sea of ​​neutrals, with sophisticated silhouettes and modest tailoring. That’s not to say it wasn’t extravagant. The collection – which focused on goddess imagery – was full of floor-skimming capes, intricate beadwork and shimmering veils. A stately take on minimalism, the collection gave a renewed meaning to quiet luxury.

Alexis Mabille: The Glass Half Full

The image of a woman floating around a party armed with a cocktail evokes freedom, flirtation and a certain charisma without commitment. This was the energy of Alexis Mabille’s couture collection, aptly titled “Mondaines”, a French word that can be loosely translated as “mondains”. The clothes were suitably romantic, brimming with dramatic cutouts, sheer dresses and slender silhouettes. To complement the grandeur of the garments, the models wore champagne flutes, shot glasses and delicate goblets as accessories. Because, really, what could be more luxurious than walking around with an elegant glass in your hand?

Viktor & Rolf: the meanest

Viktor & Rolf is not one to mince words. The avant-garde house is known for expressing its feelings, whether through literal phrases or theatrical staging. This season’s couture collection gave us both. Models walked with fake men in suits perched on their shoulders or straddling their torsos. Bows – large and small — adorned outfits like unwrapped presents. Best of all was the series of swimsuits with written messages, including “Dream”, “No”, and, to borrow the phrase used by Gwyneth Paltrow after winning on a ski pitch, “I wish you luck.”

Schiaparelli: Are you for real?

If last season’s viral fake animal head debacle taught us anything, it’s that Schiaparelli’s creative director, Daniel Roseberry, likes to push the boundaries of what feels real. Roseberry is known for leaning on Schiaparelli’s surreal roots, and her fall 2023 collection was another indication of that. The sets were full of enchanting fantasy, spray painted torsos For jewelry inspired by bronze body parts. And this time, by trading fake lion heads for fake weapons, he avoided a controversial confusion.

Valentino: Casual Friday

Opening a couture catwalk with jeans is definitely… a choice. Therein lies the genius of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino. Because upon closer inspection, these pants are actually made of silk gazar, hand-embroidered with intricate beadwork. Evoking the classic visual of daytime denim, the trompe l’oeil design deftly juxtaposes the formality and prestige of couture. Model Kaia Gerber wore the look with a white button-down shirt and lavish chandelier earrings, which were a staple of the collection, along with floor-skimming dresses and airy fabrics. It was enough to warrant a standing ovation from Anna Wintour – an honor she’s only bestowed five times in the past decade.