A New York designer has learned a few lessons from the COVID-19 pandemic. It’s not only about how to sustain a luxury-focused fashion business amid global lockdowns, but also about making choices that are rooted entirely in personal fulfillment rather than overriding concerns about the bottom line. I also learned about the importance of doing. And if satisfied designers equate commercially successful collections, it’s probably no coincidence.

That’s how Brandon Maxwell and Carolina Herrera creative director Wes Gordon approached the Spring/Summer 2023 collection, which debuted this week. Gordon’s presentation at The Plaza is a shameless delight in each element, from its iconic New York location to its vibrant floral spotlights, a theme inspired by Francis Hodgson’s 1911 Barnett novel. made me feel secret garden —and especially the show’s soundtrack, a mix of Barbra Streisand’s most frenetic Broadway and film hits.

“I didn’t want trendy EDM music, I wanted fun music that girls would like,” Gordon said. hollywood reporter after the show. Indeed, even her cross, one of her walker champions on the catwalk, Karlie, found another gear at her feet once Streisand’s voice began to belt out the title her song. It was impossible not to notice what it looked like. Hello Dolly!

“Literally from the downbeat, from the first note, I knew this was going to be one of the most fun, uplifting and empowering Wes collections I have ever seen,” said Broadway producer Jordan. Ross said.Wilson Theater where Lea Michele is now fulfilling her dreams eight times a week as Fanny Brice funny girlthe role that made Streisand famous in 1964.

“Don’t Let It Rain On The Parade” certainly felt a little sublime when Gordon’s collection hit the runway. guardian of the galaxy Actress Karen Gillan, singers Ellie Goulding, Martha Stewart and Sabrina Carpenter sat in the front row. Gordon was inspired by Barnett’s novel not only because it was his mother’s favorite book, which he read to him as a child, but because he fully developed his love of color and flowers. It is also because I was able to accept it. “The secret element of the collection comes from the infusion of black found throughout, a note in softness and romance,” he explains. “I wasn’t worried about chasing trends. Instead, I doubled down on who I am and who the Maison is, and I make unapologetic pieces about beauty.”

Five floral prints form the heart of the collection. Gordon calls them “seeds in my garden.” These cheerful bouquets of bright shades of pink, yellow, and pale blue mingled with splashes of black in silhouettes that were decidedly Upper East Side. Includes a beautiful combination of a floral belted one, a bustier top paired with an A-line skirt that reaches almost to the ankles, and a full-sleeve striped blouse paired with a yellow floral ball gown skirt with pockets. “I took a derivative of five prints and puffed some of them into chiffon, shrunk them, and brought in different details,” explains Gordon. “Even though it’s the same anemone flower, there are many things that look completely different.”

Gordon also enjoyed lush flower corsages placed on the shoulders of several dresses, including a stunning red silk crepe dress. “I always had the feeling that the reveal of the collection had to be a big secret, but it’s no longer ours.” I don’t think it’s the world,” says Gordon. “If something is beautiful, share it. I am honored and happy that she wore it the day before our show.”

Happiness is also synonymous with silence, and Brandon Maxwell was ready to express that sensibility with his latest collection. The designer, who famously got his start as a stylist for Lady Gaga and other big stars, wanted a quieter life, he says. Recently, his schedule has included tennis, his apparel, which was launched in August, his line, his FILA guest, his work as a designer, and Wal-Mart’s fashion, his work as creative director of his brand, and more. , overflowing with projects. , debuted in February. “Next week we’ll also start filming a TV show,” Maxwell adds, referring to Season 20 of Bravo. project runwaywhere he starred alongside Cross, fellow designer Christian Siriano, Elle Editor-in-Chief Nina Garcia.

“It’s such a joy to go to work and be part of someone’s journey,” Maxwell said of the reality show. “I know this is a TV show, but the filming and the process is very real and very human. And honestly I don’t feel far from anywhere.” [the contestants] So it’s a great pleasure to be a part of what they’re going through. “

So it’s understandable why Maxwell would want to leave Manhattan so he can enjoy a more idyllic life in his off hours. The designers quickly discovered that the early morning hours, filled with the chirping of birds and the hues of the sunrise, were not only relaxing but also very inspiring. , has been the most restorative of my life in recent months,” he said. THR Backstage after his show.

Lavender, which Maxwell calls “a very calming color without tension,” became a central theme and was also used to illuminate his presentation space, a series of galleries at Christie’s Auction House in Midtown. From the outset, a mix of sunrise and neutral tones, tan low slung pants and clear sequin-splashed apricot tanks, an asymmetrical skirt drooping to one hip, and black sequins paired with wide-leg pants. and strapless top decorated with gold daisies.

In the end, it was a great combination of sophistication and usability. “With a brand that looks very sophisticated, he doesn’t want to lose his DNA and core,” he says Maxwell. “But you also want to infuse it with where you are. For me, I think it’s a bit more relaxed.”

Maxwell’s florals exude that ease as well, never feeling precious or forced. Rather, one print evoked the idea of ​​the photographic paper that children use in elementary school to make prints of nature. Instead, it felt simple yet chic and natural. “The place where I live now brings back many memories of where I grew up,” Maxwell explains, referring to his Texas roots. I think it inspired me to think about when life went a little slower, when the future seemed unknown, when I dreamed of working in fashion. I wanted to make the point a little clearer.

Her flowing strapless gown in floral print was one of the collection’s hits. So did the silver sequined mermaid skirt, adorned with pink, lavender and moss green sequined flowers. Those pieces ready. “I’ve been a stylist for years, so I think it’s always in my head, even if it’s not something I consciously plan. If it turns out to involve a long dress, which is great, but if it doesn’t, that’s fine too. ”